In this post, we will be using the bodice lining pattern you created in Issue 4.
Bodice Front Overlay Pattern
- Trace the bodice lining pattern onto a new sheet of paper.
- We are going to be adding fullness to the top and bottom of this piece using the slash and spread method. First, we are going to shift the dart evenly from top to bottom. If we leave the dart as-is, before slashing and spreading, the gathering at the bottom of this piece would be significantly more than what is on top. Draw a dot half an inch up from the point of your dart. Draw a line straight up from this point. (Ignore the blue vertical line in the image. I got a little ahead of myself, and I will explain it later.)
- Cut all the way to, but not through this dot, along the line you drew. Cut up to the dot from the point of your dart. You should now be able to “swing” the pieces back and forth.
- Shift your pieces so that there is an equal gap/”dart” ot the top and bottom. Tape in place.
- If you notice in the image, the gathering of the overlay does not continue across the entire piece. See images below. In the first image, you can see that to the left of the blue line, the bodice piece is flat (no gathering). In the second image, you can see that everything to the right of the blue line on the bodice piece is flat (no gathering). I cropped the image on the right to end at the center front so it mimics the pattern piece you are working with. (Man, that would have come in handy when trying to draw that triangle cut out earlier!) Mark these lines on your pattern piece. Mine are marked in blue. If you are plus size, it is best to think about this divide proportionally, as oppossed to measurements. THINK: Proportionally you are dividing the piece into [almost] thirds, with the middle (gathered area) being slightly more. INSTEAD OF: It looks like that line starts one inch in from the center front, so that’s where I will draw my line.
- Time to slash and spread! We are only slashing and spreading the area between our two blue lines, as this is the only part that will be gathered on the bodice piece. Draw a horizontal reference line, so we don’t get “shifty” when we put this pieces back in order. Draw 4 vertical lines so that we will have 5 strips to spread apart. Number your pieces (mine are circled.)
- I wanted to create double the width of this area, to allow for the gathering. (I may decide it needs more after the first fitting, but this is a good place to start.) I measured the distance between the blue lines on top and bottom (omitting darts). And made a note of what that amount would be doubled.
- On a separate sheet of paper, draw a reference line. Cut apart the strips along the lines that you drew, and spread them out on the new paper, matching up the reference line.
- Spread apart your strips the appropriate amount (I wrote that double my top would be around 13″, and double my bottom would be 10 1/2″, I ended up spreading the piece for a total of a little over 11″, I figured that was at least a good place to start.) Pin or tape the strips in place, then trace around your entire piece. Make sure you notate where your gathering is supposed to start and stop on both the top and the bottom.
- Sketch in a dashed line, then use your french curve to connect any “wobbly” lines.
- Label your piece. Ta-Da! That wasn’t so bad, was it?
You are now ready for Issue 6.