After you have traced your bodice front, as explained in Issue 2, it is time to make your piece the correct size and shape. The first step is to get rid of that pesky bust dart. We will be using the most basic of “dart manipulation” to achieve this.
- Draw a dot just above (approx 1/2″) the tip of the waist dart.
- Draw a line connecting the upper leg of the bust dart to the dot.
- Cut along this line. Also cut up from the point of the waist dart just to (but not through) the dot. (I didn’t draw a line for this, since it was such a short distance.)
- You should now be able to “swing” this pattern piece wedge back and forth. Shift it over to the left, just enough to close up the side dart. Tape in place.
- Draw a new, straight line for the side seam so it doesn’t have that little “bump”. Cut away the extra paper. Ta-da! No more bust dart.
I Need to Make My Piece Bigger!
Now is a good time to take a couple of measurements. First take your full bust measurement (the circumference of your bust around the fullest point.) Next, take your “across bust front” measurement. Do this by starting the tape measure right underneath your armpit at the side seam of your shirt, across the fullest part of your bust to the same point under your arm on the opposite side. Sound tricky? It was more difficult to type that sentence and take the following photo than it is to actually do it. haha. Hope the photo helps! Now, why would you need this measurement? Think about it this way…a slim woman with a D cup, and a bigger girl with a B cup could possible have the same full bust measurement, right? So knowing how much of the full bust measurement is proportioned to the front only, lets you know you are leaving enough room for “the girls”. (I’m actually a plus size with a proportionally *smaller* bust, so this keeps me from making things too big in the bust.)
Ok, now that we have our measurements written down, lets get to work on sizing up that bodice front pattern piece. I often write my measurements, and do math problems on my pattern pieces, so you will probably see it scribbled on them in the photos throughout the tutorial.
- Draw in a dashed line to represent the “bust line” on the pattern piece. I held the pattern piece up to my body in a mirror to make sure it was close. Your line should cross through. or come close to the “dot” you drew in above the waist dart. (Note: Now that I’m looking back at the photo above, you can see that my tape measure is about 2″ below my armpit, so my “bust line” should start in about the same place on the pattern piece at the side seam. As you can see I drew mine in a little too high, but do as I say, not as I do. As long as you guess fairly close, you should be okay.)
- As I’m sure you know already, most modern commercial patterns already include 5/8″ seam allowance. Draw in the stitching line at 5/8″ in on the side seam so your measurements will be correct for the following. (I started this step in the above photo.)
- Measure from the line you just drew along the “bust line” all the way to the edge of your pattern piece. (There is not 5/8″ allowed on that side, since it would be cut on the fold.) I cut out the size 22 on my pattern, and I measured 12.5″ across my pattern piece’s bust line.
- Lets talk just a moment about ease. If we made the pattern piece match our bust measurement exactly, we would barely be able to breathe (and certainly struggle with that zipper.) Adding a few extra inches (I usually add 3″ total in the bust) allows a comfortable amount of room in the bust of your dress.
- Time to MATH! My across bust front is 28″. We are only working with half the piece we are making, since it is cut on the fold. 28 divided by two, is 14. If we stopped there, we would be at the “I can barely breathe” point. We want 3″ total of ease in the bust, which is 1.5″ extra allowed to each front and back. We are only working with half of the front. That is 3/4″ that we need to add to 14 for a total of 14.75″. Subtract what the pattern piece measured, 12.5″… so I need to add a total of 2.25″ to my pattern piece in order to fit.
Across bust measurement: _____
Divide above by two: ______
Add 3/4 inch to allow for ease:______
Above is what you need your piece to measure across your bust line.
Subtract from what your pattern currently measures across the bust line: ________
Above is the amount you need to add to your pattern piece.
Slash and Spread
Here is a great little article on Craftsy that explains the gist of what we will be doing with our bodice pattern to size it up. I will refer to this method as “slash and spread”.
- Draw a horizontal line across your pattern piece, perpendicular to the center front edge. (Abbreviated CF on my piece.) If your bust reference line is a straight line, you can certainly use this line instead. This will act as a reference line to keep all your pieces in order after we cut them apart.
- I’ve heard the “perfect” amount of pieces you want for “slash and spread” is 5. Sometimes I use more, sometimes less, but this is a good guideline. Draw 4 lines (mine are in red) perpendicular to your reference line. Number the “pieces” you have created (my numbers are circled in the photo), so that you make sure you place them in the right order later.
- Cut along your vertical lines to create 5 pieces/strips of paper.
- Draw a reference line on a new sheet of paper.
- Place your pieces in order on the new sheet of paper, matching up the reference lines. I used short strips of tape, that I only lightly pressed onto the paper, so I could reposition them. Leave gaps between each pieces, to equal the amount you need to add to your pattern piece. Example: I needed to add 2.25″, and since there are four gaps between my pieces, I know that each space should be just a little over half an inch. Measure across the bustline once more to confirm that when doubled, it equals your “across bust front” measurement.
- Trace around your pattern piece, and don’t forget the dart! Remove strips of paper to reveal your new pattern shape.
- I’m sure you noticed that some of our straight lines aren’t so straight anymore! For the shoulder seam just connect the two end points. For the neckline, I just drew in a dashed line for a neck curve that I thought looked reasonable somewhere between the lines I traced. Connect the dashes with your french curve.
- Re-drawing the dart: Hopefully you noticed that the bottom legs of your dart have moved, to create a larger dart which will allow for your larger bust. Draw in a new dot for the top point of the dart, and draw new legs connecting to the dot.
- Now we need to draw in that little “v” underneath the dart. Fold the dart on your paper in the direction you would press your dart on the fabric. Example: I typically press my darts toward center back, so I folded along the left line of the dart to meet the line on the right. Your paper will start to “bubble”, forming a bust shape.
- Right now the waistline is forming a not-so-pretty divet toward the bottom of the dart, lets smooth that out by drawing a new line.
- With your paper still folded, forming a “sewn dart”, trace over the new line you just drew with your pounce wheel.
- When you open up your paper (I realized I didn’t quite have enough paper, so I had to tape a scrap to the bottom and trace again) you will see the little bumps/impressions from your wheel. Trace over these lines with your writing utensil, and now you will have the fabric needed to form the dart when you sew your bodice. 🙂
- Almost done! Now you need to check your waist measurement. Measure your waist, and try really hard not to make it too tight, you will only regret it later. Mine is 46. Add 1/2″ for ease. That would be 46.5″. Divide by 4. That equals 11.625″. Here is a handy conversion chart. You can see that 0.625 equals 5/8. Measure the waistline of your pattern piece (leave out that 5/8″ seam allowance and the dart!!!) How much more (or less) do you need to equal your waistline? Add (or subtract) this to the side seam, then re-draw the side seam by connecting it to the underarm point.
Your waist measurement: ________
Waist measurement of your pattern piece (leave out the 5/8″ seam allowance and the dart!!!) ______
Subtract your pattern piece waist measurement from your waist measurement: _______
Add or subtract the above amount to the waistline of your pattern piece at the side seam.
Cut out your piece, and then do a happy dance! You have made the bodice front piece in your size! Congrats! After you are finished dancing, trace an extra copy of this piece to keep on file. If it fits you well, you can use it again to design more garments for yourself.
You are now ready for Barcelona Balcony Copycat: Issue 4